SCA Garb for Viceroy Tournament

Viceroy Tournament is right around the corner (okay so I have a few weeks) and I had the brilliant idea that Dafydd and I need new garb for this round. So we went off the to fabric store with some ideas and bought some fabric. The fabric has since been washed, dried and ironed (okay so I've been putting some of this off) and I need desperately to get to work on the sewing. I have a clear idea what we are dong for Dafydd and he's said he wants me to do my garb first . . and thus I have my predicament.

My newly applied for SCA name is Italian in origin with a timeline of around 1200 - 1500. At first Dafydd said I didn't have to keep with the origin and then he's said he thought I was. Either way I would like something fancy that isn't too heavy or bulky to pack as we may be flying to the event and is something that I can get into relatively quickly without help (as help is not always available). Am I asking the impossible yet?

At the store we found some cotton that is quite fine although not sheer and looks and feels like silk (although it still wrinkles like cotton) and we purchased around 12 yards of it.


So I did some research online into Italian clothing/costume 13th century and was lead to Italian Renaissance research and gown construction at this address http://homepages.wmich.edu/~rowen/renbk/paintings.html. I must admit that I found the following picture intriguing and I'll admit that this picture and the directions for Italian Ren at the above address were what I had in mind when I purchased the fabric.
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However, once home I started to look through books and patterns in an attempt to figure out where to start in lieu of patterning myself from scratch. When I had met with Ursula and she had originally said she would help fit me she said her current creation had come off a Simplicity pattern and I'm thinking this is the one that she was discussing and I'm not sure it's right.
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And while looking through patterns I found the following that looks similar to some but still wrong somehow
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And so then I started looking at books. I don't have anything that is considered an "original source" and I'm not sure the dates or even the drawings are right on what I have but the following is what I found that I thought looked reasonable and figured I would put it to the more experienced sewers.

With these additional pictures it became evident that I was going to need a secondary, more elaborate fabric so in my stores I found the following:

And here are the two fabrics together - not an exact match but they don't clash either:


With the fabric being stuck in your head . . on with the questions . .

This looked simple enough and I think that I could get by using the previously fitted 13th century with sideless surcoat or am I looking at this one wrong or is it wrong all together?
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Although very modernly fashionable I've not seen anything that compares to it so the question remains .. is it right at all?
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This looked like a Coatardie with an overgown but I'm not sure I have enough tapestry to get the overcoat done.
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Once again, simple enough but not sure if it is right and if it is right, not sure I have enough tapestry fabric
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Am I too old for this one? It says it is a young Italian woman.
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This one looked simple and elegant and I think I might be able to eek by with the fabric but I've no idea how to complete it and I'm not sure if it is correct.
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This one is entitled "Italian Girl" and it is similar to some of the stuff that I've seen but I'm not sure of it's accuracy. I think that I can get the directions for this one out of the website mentioned above and I think I'll have enough tapestry since the richer fabric seems reserved for insets on the bodice and sleeves.
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Fairly positive that I can get these directions out of that website above. However this has that lovely empire waist that sometimes looks good and sometimes not so much. What do you think?
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Okay, so that is the last of the possible designs. If you have something that would work better - please, I'm all ears!! Please feel free to email me your comments and/or to post them here in the comment section.

Meanwhile I'm going to get started on the smock/chemise as it will be the same no matter what we pick (well except for the fullness of the sleeves). I truly appreciate your help with this!!!! I'll update this blog with progress.

UPDATE . . While looking for my 1820's pattern for the short corset I ran across 2 more patterns that may or may not work for some of the above.

In this one I'm thinking more the main costume if we add a skirt and sleeves to the vest thing she has going.


and for this one I'm thinking one of the two off to the side. The bottom one looks similar to some that I saw on that website (I think, but then again I've probably been thinking too long and hard on this stuff) while the top one looks like it would be like one of the pictures above with sleeves added to it.